Sažetak
Uvod/Cilj. S obzirom na to da vlaženje kože može biti postignuto izborom kako aktivnih supstanci, tako i odgovarajućeg nosača, biljne matične ćelije, skvalen i prirodni alkil poliglukozidni emulgator mogu biti potencijalni sastojci savremenih kozmetičkih proizvoda. Cilj ovog rada bio je in vivo procena iritiranog potencijala i efikasnosti matičnih ćelija alpske ruže dodatih u liposome i skvalena maslinovog ulja, kao sastojaka vlažećih krema, imajući u vidu nov emulgator koji je korišćen za njihovu stabilizaciju. Metode. Upotrebom neinvazivnih metoda zasnovanih na biofizičkim merenjima na koži, kod 76 zdravih dobrovoljaca mereni su: hidratacija kože (EC), transepidermalni gubitak vlage (TEWL), eritema indeks (EI) i viskoelastičnost kože. U prvoj fazi studije vršena je procena iritacije kože nakon 24-h okluzije, kao i procena efikasnosti krema nakon primene na zdravoj koži dobrovoljaca u trajanju od 21 dana. Druga faza studije bila je bazirana na proceni efikasnosti krema nakon 6-dnevnog tretmana kože prethodno iritirane natrijum-lauril-sulfatom. Rezultati. Nakon 24-h okluzije nije bilo značajne promene vrednosti EI ni kod jednog ispitivanog krema. U drugoj fazi studije, krem sa skvalenom nije značajno uticao na promenu vrednosti EI, dok je primena svih aktivnih krema dovela do značajnog sniženja vrednosti TEWL. U obe faze studije zabeležen je porast EC, naročito nakon primene krema koji sadrži skvalen. Zaključak. Uzevši u obzir odsustvo nadraženosti kože i narušavanja kožne barijere, kao i porast hidratacije površinskog sloja kože, može se reći da se ispitivane aktivne supstance ubačene u kreme stabilizovane alkil-poliglukozidnim emulgatorom mogu bezbedno koristiti kao komponente tzv. „skrojenih“ kozmetičkih ovlaživača namenjenih za negu zdrave i suve kože, dok se skvalen maslinovog ulja može koristiti i za negu iritirane i osetljive kože.
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